The sultry heat of August occasioned an afternoon trip to the Normandy coast and the small town of Blonville-sur-Mer. There the beach is long, sandy, pristeenly white and not so very crowded. We strolled the boardwalk until we found the perfect spot to sit on the sand and watch the waves roll in. Few people were in the water, which was warmer than winter but still not quite warm enough to entice us in. I’m sure an end-of-August trip will include a dip.

The Beach at Villerville, Dusk

After a langourous few hours on the beach we retraced our steps, headed for dinner at La Crêperie du Coin in the charming little village of Villerville, not far from Blonville between Trouville and Honfleur. Villerville is a perfect little jewel of a palce, where lanes lined with narrow, steep-roofed homes lead to verdant cliffs and winding stairways to the beach. It was made famous by the Jean Gabin film Un Singe en Hiver, which was filmed in the tiny central crossroads of the same name,in the heart of Villerville. La Crêperie du Coin is on one side of the crossroads, the vintage 1930’s Le Cabaret Normand is on the other. We settled into one of the outdoor tables at La Crêperie du Coin, and save for the recent vintages of cars that snaked through the crossroads from time to time, we might have been in 1930’s France.

As is typical on the Norman coast in August, the crowd is Parisian chic and patrons of La Crêperie were no exception. They congregate at this spot where owner Denis Gaffé, tall, weathered, with Belmondo-like eyebrows, greets each customer with a hearty handshake, a cigarette dangling from his fingers. He has a permanent seat at one of the outdoor tables where he nurses a drink, holds court and, when it’s time to make the savory buckwheat galettes and the sweet white flour crêpes, ambles inside to the kitchen.

Each of his savory galette holds within it an ode to Norman ingredients, from melted Camembert and crême fraîche dotted with fresh chives to the hand-cut ham and cheese, to local goat cheese and walnuts.

Goat cheese, crème fraîche and walnut galette

Each galette was delicious, but what merits a speedy return is the speculoos and salted caramel ice cream dessert crêpe. Perfectly hot and crisp, the crêpe is folded in four, spread with a thick layer of speculoos butter, topped with a generous scoop of salted caramel ice cream and sprinkled with candied almonds. We ordered it twice, to get our fill.

Our favorite - dessert!

About to dig in

Miam! That was delicious...

What is speculoos butter? It’s a Belgian confection that tastes like those gorgeous little Belgian spice cookies which French cafés now serve almost systematically alongside espresso. It can take the place of peanut butter or nutella at the breakfast table or, as at La Crêperie du Coin, it can be spread on a cr pe hot from the griddle. When next you’re in Normandy, I recommend a visit to La Crêperie du Coin and the tiny little paradise of Villerville.

La Crêperie du Coin, Carrefour du Singe en Hiver, 14113 Villerville,
02 31 98 04 38 (La Cr perie du Coin is open in July and August, and during the Parisian school vacations).

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6 Responses to Sultry August & Delicious Crêpes

  1. Did you not visit Villers-sur-mer along the Normandy cost? Mrs. Robert Henrey, a well-known authoress had a farm in Villers, occupied by the Germans in World War Two. Mrs. Robert Henrey is long departed, but is still very much remembered in that area. Her books are well worth reading.
    Please note my new email address, which I am sure I advised some time ago.

  2. nutsin says:

    On this trip, n o I didn’t, but thank you for the reminder. We go to the coast frequently and will save that for the next trip! I’m don’t see your new email address. Perhaps you should re=sign up for the blog with your new one. Thanks so much for your comment!

    Susan

  3. Denis GAFFE says:

    C’est avec un grand bonheur que j’ai découvert par hasard votre blog. Ma femme et moi sommes vraiment heureux que vous ayez passé un bon moment dans notre crêperie à Villerville. vos compliments nous vont droit au coeur.
    Avec tous nos remerciements et en attendant de lire vos livres,
    Chaleureusement,
    Denis et FLorence

    • Susan says:

      Denis,

      Nous avons passe un super moment, grace a vous et mon poissonier, Bruno Richomme qui m’a donner votre addresse. Par hasard, sur un vol vers les Etats-Unis une semaine apres notre festin crepes, j’ai pu voir le film Un Singe en Hiver. Synchronicité.

      a la prochaine visite,

      Susan

  4. I too have visited Villerville on more than one occasion and passed right by the creperie and wondered …. and gazed appealingly at my husband as to whether we had enough time to stop. Next time I shall stop. The village is exactly as you have described and quite charming away fro the “madding crowds at Trouville and Deaville. Thank you for reminding me to make a point of going back. We too make weekly trips out from Rouen to the coast, but one of our favorite events is to cook steaks over a little camping stove with fresh b

  5. I too have visited Villerville on more than one occasion and passed right by the creperie and wondered …. and gazed appealingly at my husband as to whether we had enough time to stop. Next time I shall stop§ The village is exactly as you have described and quite charming away from the “madding crowds at Trouville and Deaville. Thank you for reminding me to make a point of going back. We too make weekly trips out from Rouen to the coast, but one of our favorite events is to cook steaks over a little camping stove on the beach with fresh baguettes and a bottle of wine Open air cooking takes some beating!

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