Freshly baked kougelhopf


Freshly baked kougelhopf
Freshly baked kougelhopf

Every year at Easter I make kougelhopf. Why for Easter?  I’m not sure except that to me Easter is, among many other things,  a feast of gorgeous baked goods and spring treats.

Besides, kougelhopf holds special memories for me.  Not only do I love its taste and buttery texture, the way the raisins float in the dough and the almonds perch on top.  But I remember searching for the best kougelhopf in Paris when I worked on the very first Food Lover’s Guide to Paris with Patricia Wells.  We searched the city for the best until we found it at a small bakery in the 5th arrondissement. It belonged to a cheery Alsatian named André Lerch, who had a collection of gorgeous, much-used and cherished kougelhopf molds perched on a high shelf in his bakery kitchen.  “The blacker the better,” he said.

My kougelhopf molds
My kougelhopf molds

He gave us his recipe, and I bought my own kougelhopf mold that day.  It was  brand spanking new but it turned out many a great kougelhopf anyway, as I worked my way through his recipe.   Since then I’ve always kept an eye out for beautiful old black molds, as attested to in my minor collection.  Then, last Christmas, I was given an enormous, and enormously blackened, mold by my friends Eloise and Bertrand.  Bertrand is an antique specialist in Paris and when he spies something precious, he nabs it.  He’d nabbed this for me, and I used it for the very first time this year. It produced a perfect kougelhopf.

Here is my recipe, originally from André Lerch, first published in the Food Lover’s Guide to Paris, then in my own French Farmhouse Cookbook!  I’ve adapted it slightly to my own taste.

(BTW – the new and fabulous FOOD LOVER’S GUIDE TO PARIS is out now.  And so is the iphone app.  Both are indispensable.)

Ready to sample!
Ready to sample!



½ cup white raisins

1 cup (250ml) whole milk

1 tablespoon dry yeast, SAF brand recommended

About 3-3/4 cups (525g) unbleached white flour

2 large eggs, beaten

½ cup (100g) sugar

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

¾ cup (6 ounces;170g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, for buttering the mold

½ cup (70g) whole almonds

1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar

1. Heat the milk to lukewarm, add the yeast, stir, and set aside until the yeast begins to proof, about 5 minutes.

2. Place the flour in a large bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer and make a well in the center.  Add the dissolved yeast and milk, the eggs, sugar and salt.  Mix the wet ingredients, then gradually mix in the flour to make a sticky dough.  Knead by hand by slapping the dough against the edges of the bowl, until the dough becomes very elastic, for about 10 minutes, or with the electric mixer for about 5 minutes.  Add the butter bit by bit, and knead or mix until the dough is smooth.  Knead the raisins into the dough.

3.  Let the dough rise, covered, until it is doubled in bulk.  Punch down, knead lightly, and let rise again until doubled in bulk.  Punch it down, and place the dough in the prepared kougelhopf mold.  Let it rise until it is almost doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

4.  Heavily butter the kougelhopf mold, and place an almond in each indentation.

5.  Preheat the oven to 350F (180C).

6.  Bake the kougelhopf until it is golden and puffy, and baked through, about 1 hour.  Remove from the oven, and turn out onto a cooling rack. When the kougelhopf is cooled, sprinkle it with the powdered sugar.

1 kougelhopf





This Post Has 10 Comments

  1. Kelly

    Beautiful! This looks kind of like Pasqua bread that we sometimes have here in the States, but much more delicious with a golden crust.

    1. Susan

      Kelly, It’s so good, I hope you’ll make it! Very simple and not too sweet. There is never a crumb left.
      The original recipe calls for soaking the raisins in kirsch. I don’t, because I’m not wild about alcohol in baked goods, but you may enjoy it!

  2. Dawn Murrietta

    Thank you Susan! I have your French farmhouse cook book and will be making this, what a privilege to have such a special recipe. I just ordered nuts in the kitchen and am very excited to have this book as well. My husbands employer has walnut orchards here in the north state of CA and we get a box each year, I know you’ll have special recipes in there as well. Dawn Murrietta

    1. Susan

      Dear Dawn,

      Yum, walnuts! I’ve just about finished cracking those from the late autumn. They are gorgeous, and I’ll be putting them in all sorts of things! Enjoy the book!

  3. I bet it is beautiful when you take it out of the mold. I just made your blueberry pie from the Farm House Cookbook and it was great!

    1. Susan

      Cathy check the photo on the blog to see what it looks like when ready to eat!
      How was the pie? It’s one of my favorite dishes from that book, lots of flavorful memories wrapped up in it.

  4. Lauren Weisfeld

    I have been searching for a mold I can get from the US. Do you have any leads or thoughts? I’d love one with character! Yours are wonderful, and somis your work. Thanks.

    1. Susan


      Thank you so much for the compliment! Regarding kougelhopf molds, I don’t think I can help you. My suggestions are ebay, and any local German communities, where cooks might be making/have made kougelhopf. Good luck and let me know if you find any.

      The other option is to come to France and haunt the brocantes and flea markets – you’d find one for certain.

      1. Lauren Weisfeld

        Thank you! I was in France last summer, before I knew I had to have one of these. So, you’re right — I must return. Thanks again, and sorry for the typo in my first message.

        1. Susan

          You are more than welcome. Let me know if you find something!

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