Onglet, or hanger steak, is a very special cut of beef, highly regarded here because of its flavor and tender, slightly elastic texture. It is considered an organ meat, in part because it is so perishable, and it requires quick, brief grilling so that the exterior is deep golden and almost crisp, and the interior is juicy and red. The horseradish is a spicy counterpoint, and altogether it goes perfectly with a rich yet smooth Bordeaux Supérieure, such as a Chateau Panchille.
ASTUCE: hangar steak is best served rare because it stays tender that way but as always, this depends on your taste. Also, the weight called for is hangar steak trimmed of any nerve tissue (most likely the way you will purchase it). I cut the hangar steak in half, lengthwise, because I find it much easier to handle than one long, narrow steak. Finally, don’t let the instructions for tying the hangar steak intimidate you – just cut pieces of string, slip them under the steak and tie a bow if you have to, or a quick little knot. Simple.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: kitchen twine, tongs, cutting board
PREPARATION AND GRILLING TIME: 25-30 minutes, if preparing the White Sauce, and depending on how rare you like your steak; 10 minutes maximum if the White Sauce is already prepared.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL: moderate
Cut the hangar steak in half, crosswise. Cut along the length of each piece but not all the way through, and open each piece like a book.
In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the White Kebab Sauce and the horseradish. Taste for seasoning and adjust with salt and pepper if necessary.
Mince the parsley.
Spread 1 generous tablespoon of the sauce on one side of the partially cut surfaces of the hangar steak. Sprinkle with half the minced parsley. “Close” the steak and tie the pieces closed in 4 or 5 places. Rub the roasts all over with the olive oil, and season them with salt and pepper.
Heat all three burners of the gas grill, or build a medium-sized fire in the barbecue. When the coals are red and dusted with ash, spread them in a tight, single layer leaving a perimeter of grill with no coals under it; they need to emit concentrated heat. Set the grill over the coals.
When the grill is very hot, set the roasts on it right over the coals. Close the grill and cook until the steak is brown on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn it to the other side and, keeping the grill open, grill it until the steak is golden on the other side, another 2 to 3 minutes. At this point, the steak is quite rare and just the way most people in France eat it. If you prefer your steak more cooked – say , medium – then turn it again and cook it for 2 minutes, and again for 2 additional minutes, for a total of 9 minutes. Remove from the grill and let the steaks sit for about 10 minutes.
Remove the strings from the steaks, and cut them into thick slices. Divide the slices among 4 to 6 plates (4 servings are generous; 6 are slight).
Transfer the steak from the grill to a cutting board and let it rest for 10 to 20 minutes. It will stay hot, don’t worry.
Place about 2 tablespoons of the horseradish sauce in the center of 6 warmed dinner plates, and spread it into a small, thick round. Lay the slices atop the sauce, garnish with parsley sprigs. Grind a little mound of black pepper alongside each serving, and place a little mound of fleur de sel alongside each serving. Serve immediately.