Tarte Tatin
Every time I make Tarte Tatin I think about my time as an apprentice in the kitchens at La Varenne. There, Chef Albert Jorant taught us pastry. I worked with Chef Jorant on a book, too, putting my hands in the photographs of his pastries. It was here that I learned the fine points of […]
Coupure de Gaz
I arrived at the studio where I give classes in Paris to find a small poster taped to the door of the building with the anouncement “Coupure de Gaz” (cutting off the gas) in livid black letters. I looked closely to see when. Oh no! “le 11 May de 8 h jusqu’au 18h” was written; right in […]
Cod with Pearls
I had a revelation last evening. It was entirely unexpected, which is the nature of revelations I guess. I was preparing dinner for a group of friends, testing recipes at the same time as I often do. On the menu was a dish I’d never made but that I was sure would be wonderful, “dos […]
