There is hardly a dish more significantly French than roast chicken.  It’s a universal favorite at home, in the restaurant, at the market.  For us, a Saturday market lunch often includes roast chicken that I buy from a farmer who roasts them “sur place,”.  It’s hot when I buy it, it’s still hot when I turn it, crisp and juicy, onto a platter.  With a bouquet of fresh farm vegetables, nothing is better.

Even more satisfying than roast chicken from the market, though, is the bird I roast myself.   You know the feeling. From the minute its aroma starts to waft through the kitchen you’re hooked, and it becomes a waiting game.  By the time the chicken is roasted, everyone’s assembled and ready, drawn by the aromas.

A big advantage to roasting a chicken yourself is introducing subtle flavors.  I like to stuff a chicken with a lemon, an orange,  maybe a lime, and some herbs. Then, I rub oil or butter and herbs under the skin, so that the meat is bathed, juicy and aromatic.  Of course you can vary what you do: instead of citrus, put an apple inside the chicken.  Instead of herbs under the skin, try butter or oil and cinnamon or allspice.  Once you start experimenting you’ll find so many ways to make roast chicken your own, the very best.

And it’s so easy – once the bird is in the oven or over the grill you hardly have to pay attention to it – it roasts itself.

There are tricks to remember however you roast a chicken.

For oven or grill:
Make sure the bird is at room temperature.  The meat won’t seize up and turn tough when it hits the heat.
Flavor the meat from the inside by sticking in half a lemon and half an orange, a handful of fresh bay leaves, some fresh thyme, a star anise or two.
Slip some softened butter or some oil under the skin, flavored with citrus zest and a bit of garlic
Truss the chicken so it’s a compact ball.  It will cook slowly and evenly, the way it’s supposed to.

For the grill:
You’re going to roast the chicken over indirect heat, so when your coals are red and ready to go, divide them in half, putting half on either side of the barbecue, then setting the grill over it. I like to add some fresh herbs that I’ve soaked in water, too, just before I put the chicken over the coals. It bathes in their flavorful smoke.

An hour and fifteen minutes is the magic time to roast a 4 pound (2kg) chicken. If you test it at the leg joint (the juices should run clear), and some of the juice is pink, just leave it on the grill a bit longer.

Citrus tips:
When you use zest, be sure to remove all the white pith.  It’s easy, just slice it off with a sharp knife
Once you’ve minced the citrus and garlic, add the oil immediately to capture all the flavors and oils.

CITRUS ROAST CHICKEN

One 4 pound (2kg) chicken, with giblets if possible
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lime, preferably organic
1 lemon, preferably organic
1 orange, preferably organic
1 large clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 fresh bay leaves
6 sprigs fresh rosemary

1.  Preheat the oven to 450F () or light a fire in the barbecue.  If you’re planning to roast the chicken over the coals, set up an electric rotisserie, or prepare your grill and arm yourself with long tongs and heavy gloves.
2.  Remove three strips of zest (about 1/2 x 2-inches ) from each of the citrus, making sure there is no white pith on the zest.
3.  Mince the zest with the clove of garlic and place it in a small bowl. Add a generous pinch of salt, and stir in the olive oil.  Carefully loosen the skin of the chicken from the breast and the legs, and rub the meat with the citrus and oil mixture, pulling the skin back over the meat.
4.  Put half the lime, lemon, and orange inside the chicken (or one quarter of each, depending on the size of the cavity) along with the bay leaves.  Place the rosemary in a bowl of water.
5. Truss the chicken and set it in a roasting pan; alternatively, if you’re going to roast it over the coals, skewer the chicken and make sure it is firmly held on either end.
6.  Place the chicken in the oven or divide the coals in half, placing half on either side of the barbecue, and set a drip pan in the middle.  Either set up the electric rotisserie, or place the grill over the coals and set the chicken to roast on the electric attachment or simply on the grill, in the center. Cover the grill and cook the chicken until it is golden all over, about 1 hour and 15 minutes.  If you are roasting it right on the grill, you’ll need to turn it ever 15 minutes.  To test the chicken for done ness, simply pierce the leg and thigh joint; if the juices run clear your chicken is roasted.
7.  Transfer the chicken to a cutting board, flipping it on the breast side, and let it sit for 10 minutes, then carve and serve.

Serves 5 to 6