Techniques and Vikings – Just another Week at On Rue Tatin

Plums with custard
Picture of Susan Loomis
Susan Loomis

Bonjour from the warmest French October since 1878, so say the meteorologists.  it’s lovely waking up to blue skies every day, watching as the leaves turn slowly from green to all colors, to ride a bicycle wearing shirt sleeves.  It’s also ominous, like Ground Hog Day, simply because it’s abnormal.  At the market a grower lamented that her shell beans weren’t “filling,”. How can they? There’s no water.  On the other hand, another grower crowed about his best ever season, even though his technique is to irrigate like mad.  “But oh,” he said.  “For it to be mid-October and not have to deal with the mud. I could get used to this.”

We take the good, then, and revel in this more glorious than ever shoulder season, as the vegetables of summer make way – but not much way – for those of winter.  During class this week we did just that, applying techniques and tricks to everything. Sit down, take a look, enjoy, then get into the kitchen!

And the Week Begins…..

We visited the local boulangerie early in the morning – for us.  Baker Maxence had been at work since 3 a.m., shaping, slicing, rolling, baking breads which were burning to the touch.  He handles them all by hand right out of the oven. Doesn’t even notice the heat.

 

Here, I’m demonstrating sautéing plums, which have been flamed with Calvados before being folded in a custard mixture, baked, then topped with a sugar, egg, and butter topping so they emerge crisp and golden.

 

Plums with custard
Fondant Normand with Plums

When using the mndoline, BE CAREFUL and, in the words of today, BE MINDFUL.  The mndoline is a razor blade on legs, and it is one of my favorite tools in the kitchen.  It can cut through just about anything, but you must be very aware of what you are doing. I suggest you get a mandoline glove and then be sure to put it on. You don’t need two; just one for the hand pushing whatever it is you are cutting.  Carrots and zucchini sliced on the mandoline and served as a salad are gorgeous and delicious.

 

Zucchini and Carrot salad
Carrot and Zucchini Salad with basil leaves from the garden, garlic, and olive oil

Below –  I’m taking the top shell off a fresher-than-fresh sea scallop that was barely out of the water. It came of the boat just hours before I had it in my hand.   With scallops this fresh, first you slice them paper thin and eat them raw.  Then, you cook them in butter and oil on one side until they’re golden, flip them, and serve them with a sprinkling of….nothing at all, or salt and pepper, a fine dust of curry powder, some minced lemon zest, herbs….

 

 

Scallops
Scallops sautéed for 2 minutes in butter and oil, with herbs.

 

And finally, when in Louviers, watch out for Viking battles. They’re still upset the Gauls won.

 

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