I had a class this week, and the blend of flavors, textures, and colors that results from this season was amazing. There were many reasons for this, not the least the nature of those who attended. But a cooking class during this season is always a delicious success, because we’re in a shoulder season: we still have summer produce, which is as good as it gets, yet we are waltzing into autumn and winter with the timely arrival of apples, pears, kohlrabi and even a few squash. Days can be warm or exceptionally chilly, so menus must adapt – lamb shanks, hangar steak, bold flavors like horseradish and peppery harissa, fill the bill.
I had to chuckle during the week as we lived through rising and plummeting temperatures, torrential rains, and the tail end of our grand Olympic phenomenon. It might have been a recipe for depression, yet the French fighting spirit saved the day. At choir practice in Paris, one of my fellow “choristes” was rubbing her sandaled feet to warm them. “I can’t wear closed shoes yet,” she lamented. “It’s too soon after summer. But my feet are cold!” And the next morning I spoke with my notaire who was upset that she had to wear a big, fluffy “pull,” or sweater, to work, because of the chill. “But I didn’t wear stockings,” she said. “I’m not ready to let summer go.” As for the Olympics? The image of the little red “phryg,” perhaps one of the more odd mascots every to surface anywhere, is still plastered all over, and Mayor Hidalogo of Paris is lobbying to keep the Olympic rings on the Eiffel Tour. What do we all think of that? You first!
I understand these tiny acts of rebellion against the schizophrenia of moment, particularly when it comes to a shift in seasons, because they are mine, too. I always fall in love with whatever season we are living in (well, except the heart of summer when it is just too hot). I am still heartily into tomato salads and wearing short-sleeves and skirts, yet find myself hungering for caramelized apples and a big hearty stew.
The weather may be the most banal surprise of this moment, though, as we live the culmination of fifty days with a “caretaker” government and a Prime Minister who was simply warming the chair. We have a new PM, Michel Barnier, a surprise pick because he’s an elder statesman who is known for creating consensus, and for paying attention to detail. Exciting changes afoot.
The President’s timing to dissolve the government slow uptake with his choice of PM was good, as people were glued to their screens or else attending sporting events. Who cares about a prime minister when you can watch that cute little Leon Marchand swim his way to history, or the amazing Aurelie Aubert win the gold in the boccia tournament? I don’t think that many people were biting their nails then, but they are now. I love hearing about it all, because no matter what, discourse here remains relatively respectable. We will see…
Back to culinary reality, though, I’ve got another class in a couple of weeks, and we’ll have tipped over the shoulder into autumn. This is an apple year, so they will feature large. And despite what my hazelnut tree announced, with its lack of catkins this summer, the nuts are falling to the ground, and I am harvesting them! I will wait to plan the menus though, because one never knows. And that mystery is just part of the joy of cooking.
I’m including here a caramelized apple cake recipe, because it’s definitely appropriate to the season. Use a variety of apples if you like, for more nuance in flavor. And a little hint: the flavor of this cake is even better the day after it is made, so try to make sure there are leftovers!
CARAMELIZED APPLE CAKE
LE GATEAU AUX POMMES CARAMELISÉES DE PIERRE YVES
For the fruit:
1/3 cup (65g) vanilla sugar
1-3/4 pounds;875g tart apples such as Gravensteins, Cox Orange Pippins,
Criterion, Melrose or Boscop, peeled, cut in eighths,
(or 2 pounds;1 kg apricots, pits removed)
For the batter:
½ cup plus 3 tablespoons (about 100g) all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
Pinch fine sea salt
6 tablespoons (90g) salted butter
1/2 cup (100g) vanilla sugar
3 large eggs
The seeds from 1 vanilla bean
Geranium blossoms
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
2. To prepare the apples, place the sugar in the bottom of a 8-inch (24cm), flame-proof cake pan (you can use a non-stick pan here), and place it over medium heat to caramelize the sugar. Using kitchen tongs, tilt and swirl the pan slightly to evenly caramelize the sugar, being very careful not to burn yourself, and when the sugar is a deep golden, remove from the heat and add the apples.
3. To make the batter, sift together the dry ingredients onto a piece of parchment or waxed paper. Place the butter and the sugar into a large bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer and mix them together until the mixture is pale yellow and light. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition, then add the vanilla seeds. Finally, fold in the dry ingredients until they are thoroughly incorporated into the butter and eggs. Pour the batter over the apples and bake the cake in the center of the oven until it is golden and puffed slightly and your finger leaves a slight indentation on the top of the cake when you press on it. You may test it with a knife which, when inserted into the cake should come out clean (it may come out slightly moist if it pierces a piece of fruit, but it shouldn’t have any un-cooked batter on it), for about 30 minutes. If the cake isn’t baked, return it to the oven until it is baked through.
4. Remove the cake from the oven and place a large platter atop the cake pan. Working carefully so you don’t burn your hands, turn the cake pan over so the platter is on the bottom, and the cake falls out onto the platter with the fruit on top. You may need to give the cake pan a sharp shake or two to release the cake from the pan. If some of the fruit sticks to the pan, don’t be concerned – just remove it and place it atop the cake – no one will ever know the difference! Let the cake cool to room temperature then serve, garnished with geranium blossoms.
Serves 10-12 people
