Choucroute

    Big vats of choucroute perfume just about every farmers’ market in France. Gloriously fragrant, the cabbage bubbles away, surrounded by hillocks of sausages, smoked pork hock, bacon, and various other pig parts.  If you’re in the mood, you simply say “Choucroute pour quatre” or however many you may be, and the vendor packs […]

Delicious Sicily

I just spent a few days in Sicily, and floods of memories came back the minute I stepped off the bus in Agrigento –  of candied squash-stuffed butter cookies, bread made with grano duro that tastes hauntingly like cinnamon, mollica (dried, toasted breadcrumbs) which are an essential ingredient in Sicilian cuisine, just-out-of-the-Mediterranean swordfish, almonds that […]

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