Tarte Tatin
Every time I make Tarte Tatin I think about my time as an apprentice in the kitchens at La Varenne. There, Chef Albert Jorant taught us pastry. I worked with Chef Jorant on a book, too, putting my hands in the photographs of his pastries. It was here that I learned the fine points of […]
A Thousand Years of Apricots (Put them on the Grill)
I plucked a small, red-freckled apricot off the tree, looking furtively around as I did so.. I’d been gazing at these apricots for days, watching them turn gradually from greenish orange to orangish red. We’d been debating, my friends and I, whether they were ready and the answer was non, non, non. But when no […]
Come Cook in France 2017
April 5-8, 2017 – Focus: Wine Pairings April 12-15, 2017- Focus: French Appetizers May 3-6, 2017 – Focus: Pastry May 17-20, 2017 June 4-9, 2017 – Focus: Regional French June 11-16, 2017 Can you hear the sizzle? It’s onions turning golden in goose fat, where they’ll stay until they’re crisp. Then, we’ll fold them […]
Run, Run to Apples
On Rue Tatin alumna, Jennifer Worick, writer,blogger, and now wonderful apple cook after her experience at the Apples and More class last fall, asked if I’d publish this note, as a testament to her current On Rue Tatin and apple nostalgia. It’s been a year since she was here. Thank you for this, Jennifer, and […]
Almond Heaven
My friend and colleague David Lebovitz has given me many things over the years, most of them issued from his magic oven or stove. This recipe for almonds, which I have adapted to a slight degree, is one of his gifts. We made it together in my kitchen years ago and everyone swooned. I put it […]
Apples Apples Everywhere
Friends recently stopped by with two huge crates of apples that ranged from scrubby green to lush, deep red. When I asked about the varieties I was met with a shrug. “We don’t know; these trees have always been on the farm,” said Francois Bourdon, who brought them. “Some are for eating, some are for […]
