Eglise St. Jacques at Porres Guirec
Brittany Part Two
Last October, I hiked a good part of the Sentier des Douaniers, the winding trail that traces the coast of Brittany. Just last week I hiked another part of…
Doux des Landes
Confit of Peppers
Every year I make a batch of pepper confit (confit means to cook very slowly usually in oil or fat) with Doux des Landes (capsicum annum) grown in the fields…
Cod in salt with bay leaves for flavor
Salt Cod Goes Uptown
Salt cod. It's not your every day ingredient, I know. But you can find it in most fish markets, often in neat little wood boxes labeled "Salt Cod - Skinless…
Poached Eggs
What is more wonderful than a poached egg? Many things, perhaps, but not when you've been traveling, or you're in a hurry, or your child has a performance and you've…
The water and sugar "sand" is beginning to re-caramelized
Sweet Praline Almonds
Ever since I tasted these praline almonds, made by my colleague and friend David Lebovitz once when he was visiting, I've loved them. They're a perfect, and perfectly surprising, amuse-bouche,…
Grilled Chicken with Spicy Rhubarb
Naturally, the French cook has a way with this fleeting gift of spring. Typically, it is wrapped in buttery pastry, pureed and put under a meringue, atop ice cream,…
Bear Garlic
Some years ago, I snitched a couple of l'ail des ours (bear garlic - allium ursinum) plants from the woods and planted them in my garden. They've got delicate, deep-green…
Tuerie
There is something so very special about being an expatriate even though, occasionally, I long for the familiarity of the country where I was born. But just think: here, I…
Cooking with Ramps
Ramps, or what the French call l'ail des ours (bear garlic) has sprouted, flowered, and now is settling in as forest ground cover. Soon its pungent leaves will fade to a pale yellow, and…
Nutmeg Logs
Its' almost Christmas, but there is time for one last cookie recipe, and here it is. These little treasures are a tradition in my family and I've made them every year…
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